If you continue to attempt inflation, you run the risk of expelling sealant into the rim cavity, sealing your valve stem hole w/ sealant, and inflating the entire rim cavity which will either immediately or eventually blow the sidewall off your rim. If you confirm the valve stem is installed correctly and the air is still leaking. If you hear air purging through the valve stem, make sure the valve stem is seated correctly, but never tighten with pliers, finger tight will do. This is because the valve stem isn’t sealed as tightly as a spoke hole so this is the only place for the air to escape. If your taping job is compromised in any way and the air is leaking into the rim cavity, it will typically expel or be heard through the valve stem hole. Most properly set up wheels will hold air for a few minutes to a few hours without sealant so this is a great place to check your setup before adding sealant. Once you have the valve core inserted, inflate the tire and check for leaks. If you are struggling to get the tire seated try removing the Presta valve core to allow for more airflow, reinserting the valve core when the tire is seated. Most people use an air compressor, high volume floor pump, and in some cases a CO2 cartridge. To seat the tire onto the rim you need a burst of air that will help the tire over the bead lock in the rim channel. If you have ever seen a car tire being installed and seated onto a rim, it is a similar concept to a bicycle tubeless setup. When setting up tubeless it is critical to get as much air into the tire as quickly as possible. Avoiding either one of those small tips will make the tire installation feel utterly impossible. Similarly, making sure to keep both beads off those shoulders, and inside the center channel of the rim will also make the entire process a lot less of a headache. Starting the tire installation opposite the valve is the first step to make the entire process much easier on yourself. A tubeless rim channel has two shoulders that must be prominent to maintain a constant seal around both sides of the rim channel. This isn’t due to poor products, but rather poor education about why tubeless tires must be installed differently. Tubeless tire installation, however, requires different and new techniques that can make even the most experienced mechanic struggle. Tubes have reigned supreme and trained the way many mechanics have gone about installing tires and tubes. Similarly, product offerings for road tubeless tires and wheels have been sparse till recently. While mountain bikers discovered this and adopted the technology quickly, the road bikers have been slow. Tubeless tires have revolutionized and changed the bike industry for the better. Taping is the first step, and the most critical in the tubeless setup - be sure to take your time, and do so carefully. Using a small pick to create an initial hole helps, and is the best practice. Finally, insert the valve through the tape should be done carefully to make sure the tape doesn’t tear out from the valve hole. Similarly, making sure the tape is evenly applied across the rim channel, with just a few millimeters extending up onto the sidewalls of the channel will ensure a proper seal throughout. If there are wrinkles or places where the tape hasn’t adhered, this will likely result in larger issues later. Make sure the tape fully contacts the rim, do not leave a gap between the tape and the centermost part of the rim. When starting the tape be sure to start 1-2 spoke holes before the valve stem hole and end 1-2 spoke holes past the valve stem hole. We recommend wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol to ensure proper adhesion of the tape. You must make sure the rim surface is clean. Here are the most common setup mistakes or misconceptions that lead to larger issues or a bad experience. We see every mistake in the book when it comes to tubeless setups and most involve the taping of the rim and installation of the tire itself.
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